 |
 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
"I've spent most of my time in the garden,
the rest I've wasted!
"What a man needs in gardening
is a cast iron back
with a hinge in it!"
C.D. Warner
Hardening Off
Plants grown in greenhouses or in our homes
in a sunny window or under grow lights need to be introduced slowly to
the elements such as temperature, wind and intense sun variances.
Hardening off is the process of acclimating plants to these outdoor
conditions.
Initially place
containers or flats in a shady, sheltered area for a few hours in the
morning or late afternoon. Avoid direct
sun, bring them in at night or move them to a protected area such as a
porch or garage. Gradually increase the
length of outside exposure & direct sun. Eventually,
after a week or so, leave them out if the temperature is well above
freezing.
*Some
garden centers & greenhouses have hardened off their plants for
you; however, it’s a good idea to be certain.
Once the plants are “hardened off’ transplant
on a cloudy day, to avoid full exposure to the hot sun or provide
temporary shade.
Submitted by Wendy Dunnville MG Niagara
Proper Planting Techniques.
For transplanting as soon as the ground is workable the following
outline for transplanting success would apply for every transplant from
tomatoes to trees, with adjustments for the specific plant being
handled.
First, dig a hole as deep as the root ball and at least twice as
wide. It is important not to plant any deeper than the plant has
grown in its container. The larger and heavier the plant the more
likely it will be to sink lower into the ground if the bottom has been
dug up and is soft.
Secondly, take the container or other wrappings off the root ball, and
then rough up the ball with your fingers to loosen the
roots. If the plant is root bound then it may be necessary
to slice into the root ball down one or more sides, depending on its
size, to open it up. This is to encourage the plant to send new
roots into the surrounding soil where the nutrients are.
Third, place the plant in the hole and fill the hole with a weak
solution of transplant fertilizer, no more than half strength, and then
push the earth into the hole as the liquid drains away. This puts
the moisture at the roots where it is needed, and as it drains, carries
the earth around the roots to drive out any air pockets.
Transplant fertilizer is the one with a larger middle number to
encourage the growth of new roots.
Fourth, mulch around the plant with an organic mulch: anything
from compost to chopped leaves mixed with grass clippings. Keep
compost at least 3 centimeters away from the stem to prevent the
devlelopment of stem rot. For a small transplant, place the
inverted pot over the plant, spread the mulch, then take the pot away
and that will do the job nicely.
For ongoing care, keep an eye on things and water deeply every week or
10 days depending on the weather. Use a soaker hose for this as we want
to water at ground level to keep the plant dry and the roots moist.
Overhead watering is an extravagant waste of water, and may encourage
disease to take hold.
Following these
simple steps almost guarantees close to 100% success with
transplanting.
Watering deeply and only as needed is best for the plant and the
environment.
Enjoy your garden.
Submitted with thanks by Vivian Shoalts, M.G. Niagara.
WATERING
HOUSEPLANTS
Many houseplants suffer from too much or too little water. Often
people want to adhere to a schedule, but this usually is not
ideal. Several factors influence the frequency of watering,
including type of plant, temperature, humidity, light, pot size, type
of pot, plant size, potting mix and drainage. A plant growing
actively in good light needs more water than one growing slowly in
minimal light. Higher temperatures & low humidity also
increase water needs. The best method to determine when to water
is to test the soil with your finger to a depth of two inches. If
the soil is dry, it probably needs to be watered. Check your
plants regularly. Wilting plants often indicate a need for water,
but this is also a symptom of over-watering. Be aware of
the plant’s needs. Some plants such as ferns need water as soon
as the surface feels dry while cacti & succulents must thoroughly
dry before being watered.
If you choose to water from the top, be sure to soak the soil
thoroughly, allow the excess to drain, & empty the saucer. Do
not allow the pot to sit in water. Another method is to place the
pot in the sink or a container with a few inches of water. Remove
the pot when the moisture has wicked upward through the soil, & is
evident at the top ( surface will be darker).
A Few Tips:
If soil has pulled away from the sides of the pot, push it back or add
more soil. Otherwise water will run down the sides.
* Only use room temperature water, not cold water.
*Avoid softened water.
*Let water sit for at least 24 hrs. to allow the chlorine &
fluoride to dissipate.
*Water from a dehumidifier or aquarium (not salt-water) can be used.
Submitted with thanks by Wendy Dunnville.
M.G. Niagara.
|
|
|
 |
|
1. Growing roses and the battle with black spot - A dormant oil with
lime sulphur sprayed in early spring before the buds break will help.
All diseased leaves should be cleaned up and removed from the garden.
Where possible, try and improve air circulation around the plants. The
leaves should not be composted, but disposed of in the garbage. If all
else fails, growing shrub roses or David Austin's, will help, as these
are relatively disease free, easy care plants and not susceptible to
black spot.
2. Cucumber beetle - Unfortunately removal by hand is best. The
bacterial wilt is spread by the beetle. The wilt causes complete
collapse of young or old vines. A good test is to cut one of the wilted
vines. If wilt is present, a white sticky ooze will come out where the
vine is cut. The disease is not only spread by the cucumber beetle, but
over-winters in their bodies. The planting site should be rotated each
year to help reduce the spread.
3. The squash plants that do not live until harvest - This problem
sounds like squash vine borer. Plants wilt suddenly and may break or
rot from the point of attack. Fruit is poor and small. The insect
over-winters in the soil and once it is in a garden, the problem occurs
every year. Eggs should be destroyed before they hatch. When the vines
wilt and the holes of the borer are noticed, slit the stem lengthwise
and remove the borer. Soil should be mounded over the injured area and
over vines near leaves to promote new root growth from the stems. The
only thing about this one that puzzles me is that the Butternut variety
of squash is usually resistant to the squash vine borer.
4. Ant control - Anthills do not injure lawns, but they do make the
surface uneven and can be unsightly. Specific treatment is usually not
necessary, but diatomaceous earth can be effective in killing ants, as
its sharp edges lacerate their exoskeletons. This causes the insects to
die from dehydration.
Tree leaves for analysis can be taken to the St. Catharines
Public Library on the first Saturday of every month (October to April)
and every Saturday (May to September) and seen by two expert Master
Gardeners, who will do their very best to figure out the problem!
. |
Other suggestions are:-
Re: Roses and Black Spot. Use Dormant Oil and just before bud break
when temps are approx. 5 degrees C. Spray the ground in-between the
roses as well to get spores which over winter there. The rest of the
problems would appear to be related to garden hygiene. A thorough
cleaning in the fall may correct the problem. As well, try to rotate
the various crops to different plots of ground to distance them from
over wintering insect eggs- which are difficult to control since they
are not
moving or feeding. Dormant oil may also control the egg masses,
however; the area would need to be drenched. If possible, use the
parasitic bacteria "BT" which will control the caterpillars.
|
Non-germination bean problem.
Because they like warm soil to germinate, plant at least 2 weeks after
the
last spring frost date.
They should be planted in loose soil, that doesn't crust over, and also
either use compost before planting, mixed into the soil or mix in
5-10-10
fertilizer at approximately 3 lbs. per 100 square feet. Plant no deeper
than
1 1/2 inches and 3 inches apart.
If possible buy seeds that are coated with an inoculant containing
Rhizobium. This helps convert Nitrogen for growth.
.
.
|
|
|
|
